TRAVEL: How to spend a weekend in historic Lancaster

I ALWAYS hesitate to head down the “It was never like this when I was a lad” route but I can’t escape the fact my lodgings on a welcome return to my old stamping ground were a notch up from the old days.

I spent three happy university years studying in Lancaster, but my accommodation was never much higher up the scale than “adequate”, albeit homely and comfortable enough.

And the less said about the mould on the lounge wall of my student house the better.

But a weekend back in the historic city gave me the chance to try out some much more luxurious surroundings.

Barely a stone’s throw from the university campus is the Lancaster House Hotel, the base for a two-night stay with all the trappings needed for a relaxing, reinvigorating time.

The restaurant catered well to our dinner and lunch needs, while the on-site spa and leisure club hit all the right spots, too.

Dinner in the Food Works restaurant on the first night included a delicious dose of Fleetwood smoked cod, a sumptuous Lancashire hotpot topped with two juicy lamb cutlets and a cheese board practically overflowing with flavour, while my companion was left more than satisfied with her own menu of salmon fishcake, monkfish and fabulously-rich chocolate pot dessert.

There was a wedding reception going on in one of the function rooms, but we didn’t hear a peep from our room not too far away — always a good sign.

The hotel boasts four stars, which is justified by the little touches of class here and there.

I was enchanted by the rose stencil — in Lancashire red, of course — painted across the pitched lobby ceiling, while our room boasted a rain shower, roll-top bath and a suede sofa to sink into after a hard day’s relaxation.

A slow morning around the poolside and in the outdoor hot tub the following day fed into a lunchtime treatment combining full body scrub, mini-facial (albeit without much in the way of raw material to work with) and massage, which left me so relaxed an after-lunch nap seemed the only sensible option.

Then it was time to head out and get to know the old city again.

Through the eyes of a 1990s student, the attractions barely extended much beyond the pubs, clubs and cinema, but Lancaster has much to offer the first-time visitor.

Williamson Park, complete with the spectacular Ashton Memorial, an Edwardian baroque folly-cum-events venue, has a butterfly house and wildlife centre to while away a few hours in, as well as ample green space for a stroll and a sit on a sunny afternoon.

The city’s historic centrepiece in undoubtedly the medieval Lancaster Castle, much of which dates from the 14th century.

It’s a fascinating place to visit, having been used as a prison for many years and as a crown court to this day.

I can recommend the guided tours, which look at both the court and after-court experience.

Among the range of information on offer from the handily-placed visitor centre, located just down the hill from the castle, is the leaflet for the Lancaster Heritage Trail, which provided our guide for our final day of exploring.

I may have trod the historic streets many times, but this circular walk, who can be easily completed in half a day, complete with cafe and lunch stops, offered new insights into both the better and lesser-known spots.

We also dropped into the Lancaster Maritime Museum, perched on the south bank of the River Lune, which relates the city’s past as a a canal hub, shipbuilding centre and trading port and nearby Morecambe Bay’s current exploitation for natural gas.

There’s plenty to read and examine, not to mention chances for children to get dressed up and even climb aboard a reconstructed canal boat.

Packed with cafés, shops and cosy pubs, Lancaster has no shortage of spots to shelter from the almost inevitable rainfall, which turned up in time to see us off at the end of our stay.

Despite the downpour, I was sad to leave the old place again — and I’m sure it won’t be too long before I’m tempted back.

Lancaster House Hotel:

Tariff: from £110 per room per night, based on two adults sharing a twin / double room and inclusive of bed and full English breakfast.With excellent cuisine on offer, The Foodworks Restaurant showcases some of best local produce of Lancashire. Starters from £5.50, mains from £12.50 and desserts from £6.50.

Visit www.englishlakes.co.uk to book or call 0333 2203 107.